ALPINE CLIMBING Großglockner (A) (English Version) del 19-20/07/2008
The weather forecast, as usually, aren't good for this Weekend... rain from next Sunday Midday seems says: "Stay at home this time too!"... but if I don't go I get crazy so.... we've to go!!! This time comes Andrea too: he has a good climing expecrience, so sure he will be able to bring me to the top of GroßGlockner! Fortunately, thanks to 3500 meter high Erherzog refuge (just one hour and half to the top), we can hope to reach the top before the bad weather. On Friday night call me Alessandro too.. and so... the 3 alpinister group is ready! ist enough to go! And sure, thanks to Alessandro (with his joke in German language, coming from AustroUngarn imperor, that can impress auch the alpine-guide coming from Stubaital) and Andrea (that can understand German language better than me) , und being at the border between Osttirol and Karnten, we'll feel like at home! We leave by my Polo car at 6 o'clock from Rovereto, we stop in Bruneck (metan gas refilling), Innichen (breakfast), and sure we take it easy stopping in Lienz at the supermarket too... The mountain road to go to Luckner haus from Kals costs 9 Euro return. So at half past 10, we're at the parking to hide a couple of beer cans under my car tyres, to keep it fresh for morning, when we'll be back! Alessandro has brought two homemode red wine bottles too... so... where are we going this time? To have a party or climbing a mountain??? We walk in the valley following the footpath to StüdhlHütte 2 hours and half walking ahead. The sky is soon cloudy and after have 1hour and 3/4 walked, we take on the right a shortcut (avoiding the StüdhlHütte) that bring us directly to the glacier. On the glacier, we follow the footprints that goes on snow with an ease clockwise direction, till 3200 meter high. We don't need rope or crampons here... an ice-axe is enough! Below us there's a group by 30 climbers: hurry up!!! We overtake the terminal crevasse thanks to a rocky passage (wired). Then over a snow depot, we climb (wired... Kletterstieg) in the fog for 30 minutes to the refuge. We leave the backpacks in dormitory and go to dining room to drink a radler beer and a suppe to warm up us. Then we go back to dormitory to relax till dinner time. And here, while we're sleeping there's the Austrian girl show, that just Andrea can enjoy (me and Alessandro were sleeping). One girl enter in our room and ahead our beds, change her slips (till naked) leaving the slip near our backpacks!!! Due the zwei-level-bed (dormitory) we wasn't able to see the face of girl... but, it has been enough go to dinner to understand which was that girl: while we were eating, a blond girl while is drinking a big beer, reverse the glass at her dress and she has to go to dorm to change her slips: that was!!!! Aahhaa!!
These Austrian girls: are mountaneers , are beer drinking, and are without shyness... are so lovely.... to get married! Once eated the dinner, and set up the alarm clock at 5am, I drink two "ZirleSchnaps" and we can go to sleep. At 5 am the alarm ring, but it's too early because we've to wait 5:30 to get breakfast. The weather is still good (except on the top, where, as usually, there's a cluod) so we take it easy and, charged backpack, worn crampons, and roped up us, we leave at 6.30 on the glacier. The estimated climb time to the top is about 1:30hour... we'll see... I climb the route as leader on the snow, in the first time to a glacier hill ahead, then, once entered in the fog (but footprints are clear... eventough the fog it's impossible to loose the right track!) we climb the steep ridge that bring us on the KleineGrockner crest, and here, Andrea climb the route as leader with crampons on rocks and using the fixed-safety poles (each 4 meters there's one!). Once on the top of KleineGrossglockner, with a metallic-wire we pass over a thight crest, then we climb the GrossGlockner crest without crampons and at 8 o'clock: here we are!! GroßGlockner!!! Berg Heil! We take a picture, and in the meanwhile Alessandro tell us that today is his Birthday! So, we return to the refuge (9:30) to make a prosit and drinking the red wine with the refuge boss (and the maids..). We drink just a glass, 'cause we have to leave fast down to the rocks... and once to the Studhlhutte (2800m), we stop other 5 minutes for a beer, the we run to the high Luckner Haus..... Devil Pork!... We have run too fast! 'cause me and Andrea are arrived there with wounds on the foots fingers! Fortunately Alessandro has brought with him some Patches! So, we can now stop to eat a good dish "TirolerKnodel mit Kraut" and ein big Radler, then at 2pm we leave. Over Lienz, we stop just 5 minutes in Bruneck for a coffee, and at 5 we're at home.... Ready to think where we've to go our next trip....
We start walking trought the long valley.... |
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...and leaving the Studhlhutte on our left side, we jump on the glacier. We climb it up to.... |
...the terminal crevasse: we avoid it, overtaking it by rocky right side... |
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3200 m high: we go ahead on easy crest... |
...and then climbing (wired) to the refuge |
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the slip of the blond girl makes us happy.... eh eh... slip isn't too sexy, but it's always better than nothing!! Ahhaaha! |
Sunday morning.... the weather is still good... |
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..so we leave on the glacier... |
..but when we're 3700 m high... we enter in the fog... |
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40 minutes to climb on rocks and snow... and... |
Eh....eh... the highest peak of our "Heimat"! The 3 mountaineers on the foot of the "Kaiser Kreuz"! Berg Heil! |
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The Großglockner is in the cloud... but it's possible to see the trip on the glacier, then, avoided the terminal crevasse thanks to the right rocks.... we've to climb the rocks (on the right) to the refuge. |
Ste pagine l'e' stae cargade volte da visitatori dal 3 de agost 2005